Xian ...

The second stop on my China tour was to the city of Xian, home of the Terracotta Warriors. The warriors were created for QinShihuang - the first emperor of China and founder of the Qin (pronounced Chin) Dynasty - on around 250 BC. A rogue Qin Dynasty rebel burned down QinShihuang's palace and mausoleum. The collapsing roof crushed the warriors. After that, time took its toll and they were forgotten.

In 1974, a farmer drilling for water discovered some pottery fragments and ancient bronze weapons. That was the beginning of one of the greatest archeological discoveries in modern Chinese history. My mom was here in 1990 and there was one pit. Now there are three pits along with a new visitors center.

When we arrived at the Visitors Center my guide pushed me to a table and said "You buy book." The farmer, Mr. Yang, who discovered the warriors was signing the books. Though he cannot read or write, Mr. Yang was taught an elaborate calligraphic signature. I bought one of his souvenir books and gave it to my mother.

What amazed me is the size of the pits. They look like covered football fields. And the warriors have been painstakingly reassembled. The only non-Chinese ever allowed on the floor of the exhibits was then President Clinton and his family. Only one other non-Chinese visitor has ever stood with the statues. That was a German art student who dressed as a warrior, jumped into the pit and stood motionless until discovered by the guards. They watch the place better now.