Salaam Aleikum

Tonight’s bed is in a traditional Bedouin camp in the desert of Wadi Rum. This is the area where Lawrence of Arabia used to plan and execute his attacks against the Ottomans after World War I. I love to star gaze, and this is star-gazing Mecca. I was pointing out the Big Dipper and Orion to folks as we warmed ourselves beside the fire. Once I walked into the darkness of the desert, there were so many stars I could barely find my familiar constellations. And the Milky Way tonight was oh so fine.

Prior to star-o-rama was our meal of lamb and chicken cooked in a buried pit. We all went out for the uncovering. We were not a large group, perhaps 50. And, with two serving stations, lines were short and seconds were plentiful. Tents were set up in a rectangle and opened to the middle and the fire. Following dinner there was dancing. The servers (all men) started a kind of chain dance and pulled tourists from their seats to join them. I seemed to be the only man selected, but then, I was the only tourist dressed in traditional Jordanian style. The show ended with a mock wedding of two French tourists. Everyone laughed and clapped and sang (chanted things in Arabic) and had a grand time.

The camp where we’re staying is so small the guides and drivers joined us tourists for dinner. My guide, Hasan, befriended (or attempted to befriend) Carol, a woman from Houston who was traveling on her own too. He was trying to set it up to where she and I were the wedding couple. But we were out dancing so another couple was selected. As things wound down she excused herself saying she’d be back. Hasan waited and waited. I waited too. I was going to offer our small group some star-gazing instruction. There’s safety in numbers, you know. When I finally excused myself to find a dark spot, Hasan declined to come along. An evening under the stars without our new friend was nothing he was interested in.

Earlier in the day I visited Petra, the Rose City. It’s full of ancient of temples, mausoleums and cave dwellings. Built by the King of the Nabataean Empire in 9 BC, Petra had about 30,000 residents at its peak. To get there, you walk down a narrow, gently sloping wash called the Siq. The Siq is lined with cisterns and canals that carry water into the ancient city. Most visitors walk the two kilometers in - there are horse drawn carriages too for those who don’t walk well - have their look-about and leave the same way. We hired donkeys and climbed a hill on the back side for four kilometers to Wadi Musa where our driver was waiting for us.

The day started off with a drive down the Dead Sea, the lowest point on Earth, and up over 6,000 foot mountains to get to the desert. It ended with wonderful views of Wadi Rum as the sun set, a spectacular meal and show, and stars that only shine in the darkest of places. As I came off the desert from star-gazing in my flowing white robe and red head dress, a camp staffer addressed me as Sir Lawrence. Sir Lloyd, I corrected him. Lloyd of Arabia.